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The Air New Zealand flight touched down right on time - 7:00am. As I approached The Cook Island Customs with my 4 boxes and 2 chilly bins - all of which totaled 180 kilos, I shuddered of my last trip. But alas customs went as the beginning of the trip - Hawaiian Air Lines and Air New Zealand greeted me with open and warm arms.
So after "flying" through customs it was on to Jenny and Wayne's home to start the "Christmas" unpacking. Yes, Carrie and Leslie, you were right - the glasses and plates for the new boat got only as far as Jenny's kitchen.
Jenny had to go to work and as Wayne had no charter he and I "played" until noon when I started my first afternoon nap.
Got up after five hours, and just as Jenny came home. She prepared an excellent chicken dinner, then off to bed again.
With Jenny gone to work and Wayne out on Charter, I had the day to myself. First order of business - my bike - a Yamaha this time. 4 day special - pay for 3 - get one free. So back to the home to start packing the "Christmas" stuff for Ian on Mauke.
Breakfast at Cook's Corner. Asked for bacon and scrambled eggs, and the waitress asked how I wanted my eggs. OK - after a minute of my staring at her she said "wet" or "dry". Welcome to the Cook Islands.
Around 11:00am - enough work - on the bike and to Maru's house to drop off her new fishing poles and place my order for shirts. She and her son still fish off the reef every evening. She has closed her shop, but continues to sew. Talking done, I started my first trip around the Island. Looks real nice, some new construction and everything is green. Back in town I decide to await for Wayne's return at Trader Jack's. The restaurant looks great with the new deck, replaced after the last cyclone.
Got introduced to the newest craze on Rarotonga - Heineken Beer - brewed under license in New Zealand. Had a few.
Met Wayne at 1:00pm, said hello to his new "deckie" John Best (Maru's husband). They caught some "kau-kau" fish so all were happy.
We spent the rest of the afternoon packing Ian's stuff for Mauke.
At 5:00pm we had to be at Fishing Club for announcement of Saturday's fishing competition "The Doug Shue Competition".
Home to Jenny and another excellent dinner - orange roughy.
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Wind kicked up over night so Wayne canceled his charter. As soon as the Air Rarotonga Day-Tour planes left we were off to their freight department with 3 boxes, totaling 80 kilos, WOW - .25 cents(US) per pound - such a deal. I ran some more errands and came back at 10:30am to watch departure. All boxes made the flight. Called Ian at noon and the boxes were already being opened.
Wayne and I hit Trader Jack's for lunch and then my second afternoon nap.
But a short one this time, as I had to be up for the TV re-broadcast of last night's New Zealand Rugby Match. The Tigers beat the Sharks 32 - 19.
We finished putting line on the reels for the prizes and did likewise on 3 of Wayne's smaller reels.
Rib-Eye steak dinner and off to bed for tomorrow's early rise for fishing competition.
Saturday, May 1
The four of us were at the boat at 7:00am, but our fifth member, Chris Douglas of Trader Jack's started his birthday celebration a day early and was a no-show.
So off for fishing and fish we did. And fish and fish and fish. No catching, just fishing. Not a touched line all day. Got my first look at the newest (and only) FAD- 1 1/2 miles straight out from the Edgewater Hotel - in 4,500 feet of water.
Returned at 1:00 because everyone had to attend the "Big" wedding at 4:00. So I made my way to Traders' for lunch and home for yet another nap.
Met Wayne & Jenny at the Fishing Club for awards (definitely not us). The two big prizes (2 rods & reels) went to Buck and his 15 year old son. Their 17 foot boat will be the class of the harbor. I still think Buck almost cried.
Didn't feel like eating so I went to Traders' for evening beers and ran into "Portofino" Bill. Had a nice talk and got some tips for Jenny's computer.
Wayne & Jenny came in from wedding and we went home for coffee-Baileys and a cigar.
Sorry, Carrie, for the fourth night in a row - I missed the full moon coming out of the ocean.
Maybe Sunday night.
The day of rest is here. Except Wayne is out on Charter. So I told Jenny I'd take us to breakfast at Blue Note Cafe. So she is now ready to leave, more later.
Breakfast over - time for the second trip around the island. Quite beautiful, everyone walking home from church.
Back in town at 1:00 - awaiting Wayne's return at 2:00. Saw the boat turn and head out, so I know he is chasing birds. Found a large flat rock under a tree by the water and cat-napped for an hour and half. Alas, all birds - no fish.
Home to finish packing for Mauke and rest for dinner.
Bob & Della Boyd's for Sunday family dinner, I'm in seventh heaven. My first leg of lamb.
Back home and dreams of Mauke.
Turned the bike in, and off to the new CITC supermarket for shopping. I have no idea what's on Mauke so I am taking a five day supply :
Cabin bread, corn beef, cheese, bottles of water, and oh yes, candy suckers for the kids. Off to airport - one hour early - so got my breakfast at airport - grilled ham & cheese sandwiches (Carrie style).
Depart at 10:30 for first stop at Mitiario. Fly right over Atiu en route, so I get to see all 3 islands. Ten minutes from Mitiario to Mauke. And there is Ian.
Check into my room and have welcoming lunch - biscuits with strawberry jam. Off with Ian to see his new house and then to in-laws to unpack the "Christmas" presents.
One-by-one we put the stereo, VCR and television on line. His 220 to 110 converter works great. The music sounds great and at 10 (maximum volume) it's several hundred yards. Got the power pack and solar charger out and working. We're having several talks on solar power.
Evening brings "Bush" beer and welcoming dinner; chicken, pork, fish, vegetables - all maori style. No utensils or napkins. Excellent food and finger licking. After the third litter of home-brew it was home for me. Tomorrow we start. Alas at 5:30am.
Tuesday, May 4 - (Ian and the Papaa - fishing Mauke style)
Ian had been having a slow time, so he was anxious to get going. At 5:30 sharp the jeep lights hit the window. Hitch-up the boat, launch and out of the passage by 6:00am - lines (2 poles, 2 hand lines) in the water in 10 minutes (first red in eastern sky, but last of full moon still in sky). Arrive at South Point at 6:30 and boom, a Wahoo bangs one pole. First time I've seen a Wahoo 6 feet out of the water. Land him - 15 kilos and 10 minutes later got his smaller mate - 11 kilos.
Birds are now working so on goes the tuna rigs. Oh, yes we're only 1000 yards from reef, 500 feet of "executive" water. Spend the next 1 1/2 hours pulling yellow fins and aku's into the boat.
Back to the harbor at 9:00 (1 1/2 hours late). Total catch - 23 tunas, 2 Wahoo's and one rainbow runner (at 8:30 - more on this later). Approximately 100 kilos - Ian sells to families at $5(NZD) per kilo. That is $1.25(US) per pound. After selling all the catch, we clean up and set down for lunch at 11:00 - our rainbow runner, biscuits and salad. Now that's fresh fish!!!
Recap: 3 hours on the water, 26 fish - 100 kilos, total income $500.00, fuel cost - 6 litters - $9.00. EAT YOUR HEART OUT HAWAII !!!
By afternoon the entire island was talking about Ian and the Papaa (Maori for haole, or in this case, short, fat, white guy). This was his best catch in months.
Nap is over and off to play tourist - seeing the island.
Got my maile vines - kids made leis for my head board.
7:00 out in the dark for flying fish. Forget Disneyland - go flying fish netting for the thrill. How do you train to drive a flying fish netting boat? Drive a taxi in New York City for 10 years. Back at 8:30 with 40. 9:00 to bed, never did it feel so good.
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6:00 - Jeep lights into the window, up & away. Rigged 4 flying fish rigs for Wahoo, but at 6:25 up came the tuna. Ian brought his fishing mate with us, so by 7:00 we had 11 yellow fin in the boat (around 50 kilos). Tuna left so back to Wahoo's. Had some trouble with rigs but got an 18 kilo and saw the rest of the island. Must be a hundred secluded miniature beaches on the eastern shoreline.
Sold Wahoo on island, but tuna are filleted and off to Trader Jacks on Rarotonga.
Ian & I had our corn-beef sandwiches and Heineken lunch and now nap time. Ian will pick me up to take tunas to airplane and then out to test the afternoon bite.
Calvin, another mate of Ian, met us at the boat and away we went. Headed north for first time to fish airport point. Lots of birds, no fish, so continued on around island. About 5:00 a nice 15 kilo Wahoo hit and Calvin, age 66, had his first deep sea fish. Sold fish at the loading ramp.
Invited to the new doctor's house for drinking and dinner. Drinking at 6:00, dinner at 9:30. Ian and the Doctor were testing their "new" gin, I stayed with "bush" beer. Ian can't remember ride home. Food for dinner was great, I think !
Last day for fishing on Mauke, and jeep lights are into window right at 6:00. I'm still asleep and Ian is pretty fuzzy. First time out that we HAD to catch fish. Our "aloha" barbecue tonight had to have fish. 3 nice yellow fin at 7:30 filled that order. On went the flying fish and by 8:00 a nice 15 kilo Wahoo is in the boat. Time for home and a beer to get rid of hangover. Sold Wahoo at ramp and 3 people wanted the yellow fins.
Back to the house, peanut butter bread and Heineken for breakfast followed by a nice 2 hour nap.
Ian knocking on door at high noon. Off for errands and preparing for tonight's party. Cleared my hotel bill for early departure tomorrow. 4 nights - $140.00 (NZD) - $20 a night US - no GET or TAT or VAT.
ALOHA PARTY !
About a dozen people - only the doctor and I can't speak maori. Ian still has Cajun-ahi powder left, so barbecued Cajun-ahi and breadfruit. Ate and left early for a good 10 hours sleep.
Mama went overboard on the gifts - a beautiful mat and two woven baskets (Carrie & Kathi will be happy). I'm trying to figure out where to put the mat. It will be this year's present. (Tomorrow I'll find one in Rarotonga shop - 1/2 as nice for $295 NZD).
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Up at seven for coffee and finish packing. Everyone goes to airport and we leave covered with Ei's.
Arrive in Raro at 1:00. Pick up bikes and all meet at Trader Jack's at 2:30 for most important thing - HAMBURGERS!
4:30 watched another Rugby match from New Zealand. Players on the bench are wrapped in wool blankets and wearing wool hats.
Jenny gets off work at 6:00 so I take them to Portofino's for dinner. New owners but food is still just as good. Had the lasagna and white wine. Slept another 10 hours.
Saturday morning "local" market shopping. Found all my ideas for pareus and gifts. Will shop for them in two weeks.
Finished errands, including picking up laundry at Snow Bird.
Noontime - today's first cigar on deck - watching airplanes and waiting for 2:00 meeting with Ian to look over fishing gear for Aitutaki.
Ian arrives at 4:00 and the four of us have cocktail hour until 6:00 - Off to Trader's for dinner.
Five of us for a top-of-the-line dinner, including drinks and wine - total bill $155 (NZD) ($90 US).
Back home for coffee and Bailey's and evening cigar.
Sunday, the day of rest, and we all slept in, 9:00 for me. Wayne & jenny are doing chores so I am on the bike for around the island.
Back just in time for picnic style lunch at Rarotonga Sailing Club. Today is the big regatta - radio controlled sailing vessels with several participants from New Zealand.
Back home for Sunday night TV - rugby and Jenny's Leg-of-Lamb. Why does it taste so good down here.
No cigar - too tired - no afternoon nap. Off to bed to dream of the days to come and that 6 K Bone (13 pound bonefish).
Off to Aitutaki - world record, Carrie, got to airport 2 1/2 hours early. Wayne had a charter. He needed my bike and I needed his truck to get chilly bin to airport. So here I sit for 10:30 flight. Coffee in hand and up-dating this journal. Off for now - time for more coffee.
Landed at Aitutaki at 11:30 met by Barry with his truck - off to Rino's (Hotel-House) to unpack. Decide to go out on the Lagoon to explore opportunities.
"Rain, Rain, Everywhere
Oh what a miserable day,
Rain, Rain, Everywhere
But went fishing anyway."
Surprise, surprise, in came this storm and it stayed. Launch the boat over the sand by Lagoon Hotel. Pouring down in buckets. Soaked to the skin already. Got to Moturakau (Bait motu) for bait fish. Raining so hard we could not fish main lagoon, so went to inside of reef for snappers and Mu. Caught 4 and decided to go home.
Calvin arrived from Mauke at 5:00 and Tina (Si-Si's sister) came by at 6:00. Took everyone to Ralphies for dinner. Lasagna still very tasty.
Home to bed and hoping weather breaks.
"Rain, Rain, Everywhere
Oh I said that before
Rain, Rain, Everywhere
So it's off to the lagoon for more"
Ever have a fisherman's breakfast with two guys from an island with no sliced white bread. Calvin and Ian couldn't believe we had a 4 slice toaster in our kitchen. So by 7:00 Calvin had already toasted and buttered half the loaf. The hot pot was boiling so I made Hawaiian flavored coffee in the coffee press. We all settled down to our toast - me with American chunky peanut butter; Calvin with New Zealand strawberry jam; and Ian with "who knows", pork and beans. This was the first of four breakfasts.
In the water at 8:30, bait in the boat by 10:00, off to find a murky. Could not locate any so decided to go to the reef for reef fish. Crossing flats, Ian spots Awas so decide to try drifting. Barry catches a nice Trevally rubber lips - the Striped Papio.
Fish the reef for 2 hours and get a complete mixed bag of around 25 kilos.
Decide to try drifting once more before heading home.
I finally get hit and land a nice White Trevally. Find a Murky on the way home and get another nice Trevally. The new rod & reel work to perfection.
Most of the day has been nice. Weather cleared at 10:00, sun-block went on at noon. Heading home at 3:00 - can't see land for the rain. Home at 5:00 - again like a drowned rat. Heading for another cold shower.
Bachelor dinner - sausages, eggs, baked beans and beer.
To bed - please no more "Rain, Rain".
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"Rain, Rain, Everywhere
Awaken out of my slumber
Rain, Rain, Everywhere
By a flash of lightening and clap of thunder".
Errands this morning and will check at noon for afternoon fishing.
One man's ecstasy, is another man's misery.
Still raining but no wind, so we decide to go outside the reef and bottom fish. This is Ian's favorite method and he has caught bundles of fish, mostly Mu.
This is my first time out of the second (East) passage - all fifteen feet of it. Outside we start fishing immediately.
Calvin and I are terrible. Only in 50 feet of water, but we cannot establish the bottom. After breaking several lines, we decide to quit. Ian and Barry are catching some, but nothing great, until Barry pulls in a 6 pound Uhu. Yes folks, a Parrotfish.
The cut bait from the Lagoon didn't work, but my small octopus from the Rarotonga Cold Store knocks them dead. Ian didn't make fun of me anymore for buying it.
Back home the three of us go to Take-Out for dining in. I had parrot fish, chips, salad and chocolate milk shake - Total bill for 3 - $18 (US).
Home and to bed at 8:00. Calvin read himself to sleep in living room and woke up at mid-night.
"Yes Toto, this is not Kansas
and it's still raining".
We all have errands to run this morning, so fishing is a late start. This is Calvin's last day, so he wants to stay ashore and read. A very wise decision.
The fishing team decides to leave the main harbor and go south to slow troll jigs for Trevally. After two nice Blue fins and a Queenfish, the ocean dried up and the sky's opened up. Three hours later we're back at the ramp, some reef fish and 100% soaking wet.
Am now awaiting until 6:45 for Ricky's Crusher Bar Pick-Up for dinner with Tumai (Ian's daughter) and then watch her dance.
Dinner was Polynesian Buffet, very tasty. People there - a real mixed bag - dancing was the usual. We are trying to get some good pictures of Tumai, to make her some stationary.
Good thing Barry came, he took us home around 10:00 (yes in the rain). Ricky was playing music and the van did not return people until midnight.
Aloha Fishing Day - so it's Ian's day - outside the reef to bottom fish to fill the chilly bin. We see Calvin off on the 9:00 plane and are going out the small passage at 9:30. Tried and tried - currents too strong to get lines down. Had some good hits, but on 16 pound test could not stop them. Chased some birds for tuna, but not biting. Back into the lagoon at noon, we decide to go home - been a long wet week and we're all tired.
Ian and I go to Take-Away for lunch. I order 3 fish & chips. Fish is Ahi and they apologize for no potatoes, so we "HAD" to have breadfruit chips. I washed down my share with 2 chocolate milk shakes. Cost of Lunch $12.
Rain is gone, but still overcast. I grab one pole, some bait and head to harbor to set the pole. No bites, but talk about tranquility. At 4:00 - Friday afternoon, I'm the only human soul on the pier. Could have stayed all evening, but needed my nap before farewell dinner.
The three of us, Tumai, and her girl friend, at Ralphie's for their Polynesian night. Tumai was wearing her new watch and then saw mine. She liked it because of the indigo light. I said "Want to Swap". Of course she said yes. With my "new" watch, I said "This is a women's watch", and the waitress said "I'll take it". So now Ian and I don't know what time it is.
Dinner was very pleasant, dancing good, but same as last night. Home to bed as the Friday night "young" crowd was moving in for music.
"Celebrities" Fishing with us on Aitutaki
The "Aitutaki Visitors Bureau" is paying us greatly to fly out this morning and taking our rain with us. Not a cloud in the sky. Just finishing my second cup of coffee, then break down the poles, pack and await Barry for last ride in his truck.
Landed back in Raro, straight to Budget for bikes and then to Trader Jacks for afternoon hamburgers. Wayne is out on charter, gets in at 5:00.
Back home with Wayne & Jenny to enjoy a nice leg of lamb, celebrating with Karen, Monday's start of her 6 week vacation in Canada.
It seem strange how sound carries here in the Cooks. Wednesday on Aitutaki around noon, I heard this huge, painful roar. Now I find out that's exactly the same time on Rarotonga that Wayne lost a 70 pound Wahoo - at gaff.
Then tonight Jenny wants to wash my damp, fishy, etc., etc., clothes from Aitutaki. Again I hear a loud, piercing shriek. Listening closely, I swear it says "Burn-em, Burn-em", but that can't be - Carrie is thousands of miles away in Houston, Texas.
Sunday the day of rest but both Wayne and 'Seafarer' have back-to-back 4 hour charters. Seems a huge wedding party from New Zealand is in town and wants to fish.
Miss Jenny and I again have our Sunday morning breakfast at Blue Note. Jenny - a hamburger.
Morning charter went OK, but canceled afternoon after one hour - wind and storm clouds moving in and looks like a wet evening.
Yes at 9:00, right on time, heavy, heavy rain, so right to bed. Another wonderful 11 hours of sleep.
Clears by Monday morning, but I'm told by those caught in it, it was the heaviest rain in months.
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Wayne again has a charter and 3 hour make-up for Sunday in the afternoon. Jenny's off to the store for a long Monday of work.
So I'm elected to do the banking. Sort of nice Monday morning. Banking at two banks with no lines.
Today I start my shopping for the return home. Today's venue - Maru's. Carrie & everyone at home want me to wear aloha shirts instead of golf shirts. My present to myself - 10 custom made (golf shirt style) aloha shirts made from Cook Island Pareu material.
Wayne's luck is continuing - had two Wahoo hits but did not hook-up and afternoon charter wants to go Tuesday afternoon.
Went to Fishing Club for some beer and watch the sunset. Wives and kids are on reef catching cod.
Stop at Portofino and get the pizza that Wayne forgot Friday night.
Peanut butter toast and coffee for breakfast. Off for more shopping and hope to get Wayne and Jenny's E-mail hooked up today.
No luck on e-mail. Will try again tomorrow.
Wayne had a nice charter - two Wahoo strikes, but again no hook-ups. At 2:30 they leave to complete the often delayed Sunday charter.
Ian and I are left alone so it's off to Trader Jacks. Wayne wants us to meet him at 5:30 with "Tea".
BOY'S DAY OUT !
Ian and I start talking and talking and talking - little brother - big brother. We not only covered fishing, but a bunch of other areas. Many beers later it was 5:30 - grabbed two six packs and headed for the harbor.
What - Wayne late again. At 6:00 we know why. 155 pound Blue marlin. The harbor is a bee-hive. Now it's off to the fishing club to weigh in. More beers. TRY to drive home - and got caught - the Cook Islands Tattoo - bike goes down and leg goes on exhaust pipe. Sure glad Miss Carrie doesn't see this one. Miss Jenny hides bike keys.
Wayne's finally home for a day. I'm off to the chemist for burn salve and cold medicine. Still can't get e-mail - cannot fit Pacific Marine into 12 letters - stalemate.
Home for a real lazy day, keeping salve on leg and keeping it elevated. Jenny is worried Carrie will never talk to her again.
Ian finally arrives to help put keel onto new boat. But so does the rain and job is put off until tomorrow.
Ian and Wayne talk of next freighter from New Zealand. Massive amounts of material and things to finish Wayne's boat and all of Ian's aluminum for his new boat. Today we finished lining up all the other material for Ian's new boat. It's going to be a busy winter in about 4 weeks for a couple of guys.
Have been listening to my music tapes that I sent down. They sound very pleasant. The Cook Islands "finally" got CD's - so got my 10 to make my Cook Island tape for office.
Wayne is off to check boat and market. Told him to pick-up popcorn and orange juice. Looks like a "busy season" dinner.
To bed early for "Health" reasons.
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Still got some rain in the air, so all decide that a good day's rest at home would do Doug wonders.
Afternoon, I finally got to watch the boxing video in that I made two months ago.
Wayne was supposed to meet his marlin angler at Fishing Club. So I went with him for a couple of beers for medicinal purposes. The guy never showed, so we came home early and enjoyed a nice steak dinner.
Wayne is out on charter, weather has cleared, and I'm off to shop for the girls. Funny: In Hawaii, it's all guy stuff (fishing) buying; in the Cooks it's all girl stuff (clothing & pearls) buying.
No fish but two nice strikes and a broke line on 10 K yellow Platypus line. We check it afterward and breaks twice at 4 K. "Aloha line"
Met Ian on the road and went to Traders for lunch - fish and chips (parrot fish). Decide to have a couple of beers and wait for Wayne's return at 2:00. Phone call for Ian (I almost died when the bartender put the phone in front of me). "Honey come home, I'm lonely!" " You're drinking with Who again?" "Isn't he ever going back to Hawaii??" Went to meet Wayne by myself.
After 21 days finally made it to the ice cream store. When you come to Rarotonga, forget all other activities and just sit here and eat coconut milk - ice cream cones. Triple scoop - 60 cents US.
Time for my afternoon nap and dinner tonight with Wayne & Jenny at Traders. Should be fairly quiet, as the Trader is leaving this afternoon for New Zealand.
Last day to do shopping. Went to Saturday Open-Market. Really hard to find T-shirts and singletes I want. Bought some and hope for best on sizes.
No charter today, so we decide to "Boat-Build". Have been trying all week to get the keel on Wayne's new boat. Ian arrives at 1:00 and the three of us hit it. Boat building is a real thrill in the Cook Islands. Talk about Jury-rigging and improvising. I won't even attempt to list them.
Rain came at 4:00, about 3/4 of way through the work, and had to quit. Far enough along that Wayne can finish by himself.
Almost forgot - semi-finals of Super 12 Rugby Competition were today. 12:30am from South Africa - 7:30am from Australia. (I saw second half on second game.)
Both games were won by New Zealand teams, which means an all Kiwi final next week.
We celebrate with big steak dinner.
The drizzle has finally turned to a true "Kona". Rain started before sunup and at 5:00 still going.
Just a super Pig-out day.
Portofino Bill came over at 2:00 to get Wayne & Jenny on e-mail and Internet. Now 5:00 and still going. But all good. Got our first messages from Sisi at Traders and Jim in Lahaina.
Thanks Jim for the phone call this morning. Got my only e-mail the day after I arrived. Got my only phone call the day before I leave.
Got my packing almost done. Looks like a "light" trip home.
Going Home.
Still got that "Kona" rain. Have got some wrap up errands to do, but must ride with Wayne in truck. I try to turn bike in between squalls, but got caught and soaked.
All shopping is done and preliminary packing done. Off to Traders for one last lunch.
Run into Red & Shirley from Lahaina. Not enjoying the rain too much.
Finish packing and one last night of Jenny's good dinners and off to airport at 10:00.
Next stop - Hawaii.
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